Lyon
Habitually anglicized to Lyons, France's third-largest city is in the east, between Paris (a long-time rival) and Marseille. It was an important Roman settlement, a financial centre in the Middle Ages, saw a massacre of Huguenots on St Bartholomew's Day in 1572 and was the scene of uprisings by silk workers in the 19th century. Today, the city's energy is channelled into a frenetic pace of life.
The Rhone and Saone Rivers converge to the south of the old centre, forming a peninsula known as the presqu'ile. This is home to one of France's largest squares - Place Bellecour, the hub of smart Lyon and often the scene of special events. A hill to the west is known as Fourviere (the Hill that Prays). To the north, Croix-Rousse (the Hill that Works) housed the numerous silk workshops that produced Lyon's most famous product. Lyon's historic centre with its Italianate look is one of Europe's largest Renaissance quarters - a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It is a delightful surprise to find that the old part of this sprawling (and rather dirty) modern city is so charming. On the Fourviere is the ornate landmark Basilica Notre-Dame, dating from the 19th century. The hill is also home to convents, the Archbishop's Palace, a soaring mini-Eiffel tower and funicular. In Croix-Rousse and Vieux Lyon (the old to\ivn), a unique feature is the network of traboules. These ancient passageways run through buildings and were used as shortcuts for transporting goods around town, ensuring that they never got wet. Many are now private but around 40 are still in use, including the rather special Traboule de la cour des Voraces.
In keeping with best French practice, the historic rubs shoulders with the ultra-modern, and Lyon has many examples of daring, attention-grabbing architecture.